The first time the Skelligs appear on the horizon, most people pull over whether they meant to or not. Two jagged rocks rise straight out of the Atlantic, far enough from the Kerry coast that they look like they have been misplaced. The smaller one, Little Skellig, is white with gannets. The larger one, Skellig Michael, has a monastery near its summit that was built by monks who clearly did not believe in doing anything the easy way. I have driven the Ring of Kerry more times than I can count, and that view still makes me slow down.
That said, the mistake most cousins make is thinking the drive is the hard part. It is not. The hard part is the boat, the weather, the 600 steps, and the decision about whether a few hours on a freezing rock is how you want to spend a day of your holiday. This guide covers the drive to the harbour, the boat itself, and the landing, so you can make that decision with your eyes open. If you are planning the broader Kerry loop first, our Ring of Kerry self-drive guide sorts the route out before you even think about the boat.
You cannot drive to Skellig Michael — but you can drive to the boat
There is no bridge, no ferry for cars, and no road that gets you any closer than the mainland pier. Skellig Michael is an island, and the only way onto it is on one of the licensed passenger boats that run from two harbours on the Kerry coast: Portmagee on the north side of Valentia Island, and Ballinskelligs a few kilometres to the south. Both are reachable by car, both have their own character, and both will leave you with a short drive back to the Ring of Kerry when you return.
The drive itself is straightforward once you know the road. From Killarney you head west through Killorglin, pick up the N70 around Cahersiveen, and then drop south onto the R566 towards Portmagee or continue on the N70 towards Ballinskelligs depending on your booking. From Kenmare or Sneem you join the Ring of Kerry clockwise and peel off at Waterville. Either way, the last stretch is narrow, twisty, and scenic in the way that makes passengers reach for their cameras while the driver keeps both hands on the wheel.
Portmagee or Ballinskelligs: which harbour to leave from
Most boats to Skellig Michael leave from Portmagee. It is the prettier harbour of the two, with painted houses, a couple of pubs, and the bridge onto Valentia Island right beside it. Parking is limited but manageable if you arrive early. The boats from here tend to be a bit smaller, the skippers know the water intimately, and the crossing is slightly shorter because Portmagee sits closer to the islands.
Ballinskelligs is the alternative. The beach and the old abbey ruins give it a different feel, and the boats that leave from here can be a good option if Portmagee is fully booked or if you are staying further south around Waterville. The drive in from the N70 is easier than the run into Portmagee, and there is usually more parking. The trade-off is a slightly longer crossing and fewer daily departures.
The road to the harbour is part of the experience
If you have already driven the Ring of Kerry, the run out to the Skellig coast feels like the encore. The road narrows, the hedgerows get taller, and every so often a gap opens up and the Atlantic fills the windscreen. Take the R566 from Cahersiveen to Portmagee and you will pass through the village of Chapeltown, then down a long hill where the islands suddenly appear straight ahead. It is one of the best approach roads in Ireland, and almost nobody talks about it.
The surface is generally good but the verges are soft and the oncoming traffic can be wide. Coaches do not come down here, which is a mercy, but you will meet camper vans and local tractors. If you are nervous on narrow Irish roads, read our driving in Ireland tips before you set out. The same rules apply: pull into a passing bay when one is behind you, do not hug the centre line, and never trust a GPS time estimate on a road this small.
The boat trip is not a harbour cruise
The crossing to Skellig Michael takes 45 minutes to an hour each way, depending on the sea and which harbour you leave from. This is open Atlantic water, not a sheltered bay. On a calm day the boat ride is a highlight in itself: you pass Little Skellig close enough to smell the guano, gannets dive beside the bow, and if you are lucky a seal or a basking shark will surface nearby. On a rough day, it is a test of constitution.
Boats are licensed by the Office of Public Works and only a fixed number are allowed to land on the island each day. That cap is what makes booking essential. Operators will cancel if the weather is unsafe, and they are not being cautious for the sake of it: landing on Skellig Michael in swell is genuinely dangerous. If your crossing is cancelled, there is no guarantee you will get another slot. Build a buffer day into your itinerary if the landing matters to you.
The landing: 600 steps, no handrail, no café
Once the boat ties up at the little pier on Skellig Michael, the real work begins. The path to the monastery is a climb of roughly 600 stone steps, some original and some restored, cut into the rock with no handrail and very little shelter. The height gain is not enormous, but the steps are uneven, often wet, and exposed to the wind. Good walking boots are non-negotiable. Trainers will make you miserable; sandals or city shoes are a bad idea.
There are no toilets on the island, no shop, no bin, and no rescue service beyond what the boat crew can manage. You carry in everything you need and carry out everything you bring. The boat crew will give you a safety briefing and a return time. Stick to it. Missing your boat means a very awkward conversation with the next skipper and a long wait on a cold rock.
What you actually see on the island
The monastery is the headline. Six beehive huts, two oratories, and the remains of terraced gardens sit on a saddle of rock 218 metres above the sea. The monks lived here from roughly the sixth to the twelfth century, eating fish and seabirds, hauling water up from the sea, and staying alive in conditions that would break most of us in a week. The fact that any of the stone structures survive is remarkable. The fact that people built them here at all is extraordinary.
Then there are the puffins. From May to early August the island is full of them, standing on the grass like tiny clowns with fish in their beaks. They are fearless, curious, and completely uninterested in your camera settings. The gannets are harder to miss: Little Skellig holds one of the largest gannet colonies in the world, and the noise and smell hit you before you get close. Bring binoculars if you have them, but leave the drone at home. Drones are banned.
The Star Wars connection is smaller than you think. Yes, the final scene of The Force Awakens and the opening of The Last Jedi were filmed here. The island stood in for Ahch-To, the hidden planet where Luke Skywalker had gone to sulk. It looks otherworldly on screen because it looks otherworldly in real life. But if you are making the trip purely for the Star Wars angle, manage your expectations. There are no props left behind, no signed plaques, and no Rey cosplay at the top. The monks were here 1,400 years before Luke showed up, and they are still the main event.
That said, standing on the path and recognising the exact ridge from the films is a genuine thrill for fans. Just do not let it overshadow the history, the birds, and the simple fact that you are standing on a rock in the Atlantic that human beings somehow made home.
Timing the day: when to book, when to go, what to wear
Boats run from roughly May to September, sometimes into October if the weather holds. The OPW closes the island completely outside the season, so a winter visit is impossible regardless of how brave you feel. May and June are the busiest months because of the puffins. July and August have more stable weather but also more visitors. September can be glorious and quieter, though the Atlantic is less predictable.
Wear layers. Even on a sunny July day the temperature drops once you are offshore, and the wind on the island is relentless. A waterproof jacket is essential, even if the forecast looks perfect. Bring sunscreen, a hat, and gloves for the climb. Pack water and a snack, but keep it light. You do not want to be carrying a full picnic up those steps.
Honest verdict: who should make the trip and who should skip it
Skellig Michael is not for everyone, and that is fine. If you have dodgy knees, a bad back, or any real anxiety about boats, this is not the day trip for you. The island will still be there, and the view from the mainland is spectacular on its own. If you are travelling with small children, think carefully: very young kids are not allowed to land in some conditions, and the climb is too dangerous for anyone who cannot follow instructions.
But if you are reasonably fit, reasonably steady on your feet, and you like the idea of standing somewhere that feels genuinely remote, it is one of the best experiences in Ireland. The combination of history, wildlife, and sheer improbability is hard to beat. Just go in knowing what it is: a tough, weather-dependent, unforgettable few hours, not a comfortable afternoon out.
If you do not land, you can still take an eco-cruise around the islands. Several operators run non-landing trips that get you close to Little Skellig and the cliffs of Skellig Michael without the climb. It is a worthwhile compromise if the weather is marginal or the landing slots are gone.
The car that gets you there
All of this starts with a car. You cannot do the Skellig coast by coach timetable, and the local buses do not run early enough for most boat departures. Having your own vehicle also means you can detour to Valentia Island afterwards, or head down to Waterville for a late lunch, or simply pull over at the first viewpoint that catches your eye. That freedom is the whole point of a self-drive holiday.
A few final details that save cousins from disappointment. You need to book the boat directly with a licensed operator; My Irish Cousin does not sell boat tickets. The crossing is not included in any car rental. Landing permits are limited and non-transferable. If the operator cancels due to weather, they will usually offer you the next available sailing or a refund, but they are not obliged to find you a slot on another day. Travel insurance that covers activity cancellations is worth having.
The Skelligs are a special place, and they are protected for good reason. Follow the instructions of the boat crew and the OPW wardens, stay on the paths, and do not disturb the birds. The monks managed to live here without causing damage for centuries. The least the rest of us can do is keep it that way for the next visitor.
